![]() ![]() The rest will be ok with brackets and it will be more practical if you need to cut or move profiles. I would only use T connectors for the parts of the structure that need to be very strong and are never going to change in the future: the base and the columns. I do, however prefer using authentic 80/20 Inc flanged button head socket bolts as they eliminate the need for a washer for most applications. Many rig builders also supply roll-in T-nuts which are superior in function and ease of use to standard economy T-nuts. Aluminum extrusion seems to be cheaper in Europe than North America, and the rig builders are buying in volume. In many cases the prebuilts are coming in very competitively priced even with international shipping. You can buy many new prebuilt stands for only little more $. Recently, before I sold my old style Sim-Lab triple monitor stand, I roughly calculated the component costs to exceed $325 USD. You can use 5/16-18 hardware or M8 hardware with either 15- or 40-series profiles, but try to avoid the headache of mixing the two types.įinally, be sure to price out your rig fully including all fasteners and to factor in shipping costs. I can confirm there is some interchangeabilty between the metric and standard corner brackets and gusseted brackets in working with my rig and a Sim-Lab triple monitor stand. The differences in standard and metric slot spacing does not allow for mixing most plate type fastening methods. Finding metric fasterners in the US is a slight concern but nothing the internet can'tsolve in a day or so.įor instance, if you want to add a specialized wheel plate or pedal plate from a retail rig vendor such as Sim-Lab, Racing Sim Rigs UK, or even Trac Racer, they all use metric profiles and hardware. profiles and fastening options in metric than standard, but there is no price difference. base) here in the US about 8 years, I would suggest that you strongly consider 40-series metric profiles as most commercial rigs use metric profile. Having built a similar DIY 80/20 rig from fractional 15-series profiles (standard 1.5-in. I was thinking using 2x4's as the frame would be a lot cheaper but I don't know how sturdy it would be. I'm planning on getting the simucube 2 pro so that's why I was thinking of going the diy 8020 route instead of the Gt1 evo from simlab.Īlso has anyone built a rig out of wood. I'm looking to try and get the Proto Simtech PT2's when they are available and pull a seat out of an old car. I don't know if the seat mounting or pedal area's would work. I'm just looking for some feedback from someone with more experience and if there are any major changes I should look into. I've never worked with 8020 before and this design is pretty similar to what other people have done. I feel like that is probably overkill though. I threw together a similar one using 1.5"x4.5" for the base as well. Except for the wheel posts and wheel deck, that's 1.5"x4.5". It's 55"x23" and the vertical wheel posts are 26". Here is an image of what I came up with in Frame Designer. ![]()
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